ECN Forum Forums General Topics of the Trade General Discussion Area Receptical Tester

Guys,

I have a set of houses to trouble shoot.
Somebody entered each house, and cut one cable.
My task is to trace the circuits, make the splice.
Accessible JB are ok, and the GC will repair the walls.

I have a telephone transmitter/receiver but this project requires something more sensitive (through the walls, depths of 12" maybe).

I have been going through procedures to Trace the Broken Circuits,
and looking into buying a real circuit tracer.

Any suggestions on procedures?
Any suggestions on tracers?

__________________
Glene77is Memphis, TN
Call it what you will . . .
As Long as the Functional Logic is right.

If the cables were actually cut, they've made you job easier.

Even the relatively inexpensive 'data/phone' type tracers (for use on un-powered lines, about $120) will read through walls, etc.The #701K in this link is truly the 'classic' for this use:
http://www.lashen.com/vendors/tempo/toners_probes.asp#pe701k

For more demanding jobs, for live circuits and even some underground work, this tracer (508S) is useful:
http://www.lashen.com/vendors/tempo/cable_locators.asp#pe508s

It's all a matter of being systematic andpatient. First ID -colored masking tape works great - the receptacles that are working. Then apply the toner to the dead receptacles - I use a plug with a pigtail for this.

The tape ought to give you a very good idea as to what circuit and what area of the house has the break. Use the toner to follow the wire from what you think is the first dead receptacle in the series; when the signal stops, you have your break.

It also helps to know the story behind the problem. For example, was the damage done bofore, or after, the walls were closed in? Was it deliberate or accidental? Could it be something as 'simple' as a wire not connected at a wire nut (something I have found a few times)?

Indeed, my very last service call before leaving Reno was this exact situation - and it was a loose wire at a wire nut. My being systematic made me look like a genius when I found the problem in the very first box I took apart.

Is this a hypothetical question or an actual call? If someone cut a cable after the walls were closed up it has to be in an accessible spot.
If this is new construction and the vandal did this at the FEPAC before the rock went up it might be as easy to fish in a new wire around the bad spot than to get in there. You should be able to get some help in the routing from the original EC ... if he is not the one who cut the wire.

Wait, that thread took a very unexpected turn from page 1 to page 2... is my browser playing tricks on me?

I often heard that quality plug-in testers are good tools for DIYers, telling them when to get a pro involved. They are most definitly not real meters. The Benning Duspol with switched load is certainly the Mercedes of testers
I have a cheaper ripoff and really don't want to miss it. DMMs can quite easily give phantom readings too (high impedance test circuit).

No, Texas, you saw correctly. Another poster has hijacked this thread ....

I can't speak for others ... but I decided to let the thread play out, as even the original post was touching on the topic of troubleshooting.

How about posting a link to that Nenning Duspol tester? I don't think there's ever been one of those on this side of the 'pond.'

From the Benning US site:
Duspol Voltage Indicators Detail.

From that referenced site: (emphasis added)

OK, that's a new term for me. Shocking, perhaps, but irritating?

RH,
It's also known as a Ghost voltage, it can lead you down the wrong path when trying to fault-find circuits.
You need a tester that draws a bit of current (>100mA).

They're talking about phantom voltages, the famous ones that give you weird readings of smething like 60 or 79V AC using a DMM on a supposedly dead line but go down to 0 as soon as a load is connected.

The indication listed (all three Lamps on), sounds like it may be an Open Neutral issue, on 1/2 of a Multiwire Circuit; and there is a connected Load bridging the two halves of the Multiwire Circuit. (???)

Maybe the odd report is due to a N-G bond, with some other Circuitry issue involved upstream, downstream (or both) from the Outlet tested???

In any case, suggest to remove the N-G Bond on all Receptacles, then place a GFCI Receptacle at the "First Outlet" of each Receptacle Circuit - with the remaining Outlets fed via the "LOAD" output of the GFCI Receptacle.

A GFCI Receptacle may be used at all locations, if wanted.

Without the GFCI protection, replace all Receptacles on the mentioned Loops with Two-Wire, Non Grounding type Receptacles.

As others have mentioned, back up the Receptacle Tester's test with a test using a Volt Meter.
I prefer to use a "Wiggy" (Low Input Impedance, Solenoid type Volt Meter) for a "Proof" test.

Scott