ECN Forum Forums Code Related Discussion NEC & other Code issues Pool Heaters

The line voltage runs the blower, gas valve, control board and igniter. You can order them 120 or 240 depending on what pump you use. Some are dual voltage with taps to select the one you want

well i'll go back to this job soon, gotta few finishing touches, and report back here....

i really don't know why anyome would want their pool pump and heater running 24/7 anyways, seems odd

more as i get it....and thanks fellas...~S~

Is this commercial. It is common to run the heaters 24/7 in a commercial pool. Usually the health department requires that the pump runs all the time anyway.
If you are a bazillionaire I suppose you run the heater in a residential pool all the time too. I sure can't afford it.

spot on, this is one of Vermont's McMansions owned by a wall street ceo Greg

he's got more $$$ than God

and being the AHL (Authority Having Liability) i'm trying to be as cautious as possible.....

~S~

ok, this is a Pentair heater with a Pentair pump

of note>>>>here

Use of any electrical equipment such as underwater lights, deck lights, the pool pump or any other accessory can pose a safety threat to people in the water if the wiring is incorrect or faulty. Use the following safety precautions to avoid electrocution or electrical shock:

Always use a trained technician for installation, service or repair of any electrical wiring or equipment. Have your technician verify these points:
Use ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCI) for the power supply circuit for each piece of electrical equipment, including utility pumps to drain the pool water. The GFCI will disconnect the power supply if any electricity leaks are detected.

Make sure your installation meets all local and national codes.

Make sure all electrical equipment is grounded and all metal objects (ladders, diving platforms, etc.) are electrically bonded together.
Never use extension cords around a pool or spa.

Never enter the water when a utility pump is running.

Never put an aluminum vacuum handle into the pool.

Never swim in your pool or spa during an electrical storm.

Sparky:

From your post:

"Use ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCI) for the power supply circuit for each piece of electrical equipment, including utility pumps to drain the pool water. The GFCI will disconnect the power supply if any electricity leaks are detected."

110.3 (b) follow mfg instructions.....guess there's a 'leak' in the thing somewhere.
Warranty issue with the pool guy? Seriously, it could be a bad unit.

This is a classic reason why I question 110.3(B).



I tried waving it over the pool and it didn't do diddly squat.

Greg:

I saw that...but passed on the option to comment. Nice choice of words!

well the 'pool guy' finally showed up.

they say they always request a timer on the pump motor, not the heater, and i guess rely on the protectants the heater has....

yanno, i always ask these 'pool/sauna/hot tub/appliance guys what they're used to seeing, just out of professional courtesy

but to be honest, i really don't think they have intricate knowledge of the product(s) they are selling

so anyways, everything conflicts here

the paperwork instructions vs. the online ones

the pool guy vs. either

everything vs. the nec

so....i've bonded it all up as much as i possibly could, and have everything operating on a GFI

that's one thing i'm not about to compromise on....

~S~

I wouldn't compromise on the timer either. It is a 110.3(B). I guarantee when you look at the "fireman's switch" section of the installation manual they will tell you the pump needs to be wired to a timer that makes the pump run "X" minutes after the heater shuts off (X = 15 in the case of my StaRite 330kbtu). The safeties in the heater will shut the heater down but you still have a lot of residual heat in there and you will make steam. Playing with my IR thermometer I figured out 30 seconds to a minute will probably do the trick but the instructions are what they say.