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Do we need grounding?
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Joined: Jul 2004
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G
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Reno
Yes I first heard this around 1999 or 2002 from Jim Pauley at a code update seminar. I am not sure when the language changed but you do consider that all the service and one assembly.
The real reason they used bonding bushings is, this is all in front of the service disconnects in the cans below the gutter.
Up to six, you could do this and not have that line side disconnect. The real issue, I think you will run into, is accessing fuses there. That will be up to the PoCo but I bet they want to seal that cabinet.

Harold, I am not sure about the rest of the world but in Florida they want a rod at the trailer itself if it is not up on wheels. Usually that is somewhat redundant since there are also anchors screwed into the ground every 8-10 feet around the perimeter and bolted to the frame but they are not "electrical equipment" so we can't see them. They do worry about lightning hitting these things and want them grounded locally.


Greg Fretwell
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Joined: Jan 2005
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Cat Servant
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We're hitting on some of my considerations. While I may have done 'more' than the code requires, I believe in the following saying:

"Good design invariably meets code; Designing 'to code' will often result in poor design - and might not even meet the code when all is done."

As for the ground rods, I look at them as a 'lightning issue.' That is, if I have a separate lightning target, it gets a rod. True, with a trailer the rod is at the pedestal, and not directly attached to the trailer; you can't have everything.

That green wire, however, is there so that breakers will trip and fuses will blow. That green wire is there to help 'lost' electricity get 'back home' to the transformer. That's why we ultimately bond it to the utility neutral. I just don't want to deliberately send that fault current through the sheet metal - there's too much opportunity for Murphy and his law.

So, in this instal, regardless of the bond in the meter enclosure, I have a solid copper path (my green wire) all the way from the panel in the trailer to the utility neutral. I want as little current passing through that sheet metal as possible.

As to the fuses perhaps being inaccessible .... I dare say I want it that way. I sized the fuses based upon my load calculations; if I erred, I want to know about it. Just as important, I have reason to question the honesty of the information the owner has provided; if he has more ambitious plans than he admits, I want to catch him at it.

Right now, I'm powering a trailer whose load calculates out at 103 amps. The owner plans to add two more trailers, specifying 100 amp services for each. This led to my providing 150 amp fuses; those ought to be adequate.

BTW, I have many pictures of this job, and you'll be seeing them as I bring up other issues in new threads smile

Last edited by renosteinke; 06/26/09 06:04 PM.
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