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#185492 03/16/09 11:35 PM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 5,445
Likes: 2
Cat Servant
Member
Until today, that is.

When I went solo, one of my first purchases was a pair of rated gloves and liners. Today was my first opportunity to use them.

I was actually surprised at how little effect they had on my work - not clumsy at all! Indeed, the "real" gloves were much easier to work with than many of the improvised gloves I've used over the years.

With this positive experience behind me, I suspect I'll be more likely to use them in the future. Heck - their use might even become routine.

Arc Flash PPE Clothing, LOTO & Insulated Tools
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 466
Likes: 1
J
Member
Even after repeated uses it still seems somewhat strange to be separated from unfused cables by a thin layer of rubber and leather.

Make sure to keep the gloves in good condition and check for holes.

Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 853
L
Member
Pay for testing!
On a side note: The most over looked safety item in my opinion. Glasses/shield. I see so many guys put on the long sleeves,gloves etc,But never cover the most precious of all..the eyes/face!

Ever seen a flashed face? not pretty against those pristine hands!

Be safe! fashion can wait!

Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 939
F
Member
I used the hot glove all the time and every time you get done useing it make sure you double check for any cuts or kinks or any pinholes if there is one discharge it and get new one.

For pinhole all you have to inflate the glove like balloon if you hear a air leak then you got a pinhole that is good time to throw it away.

The newer gloves do have dual liner and they have specal colour underneth if got cutted or pinholed one of two it will show diffrent colour to warn it. The pinholes are tough to find it as I mention blow it up you can able find it then between 6 month to a year if still good shape you will have to take the glove to testing centre they will test with voltage graduent to make sure it still pass the test.

Merci,Marc


Pas de problme,il marche n'est-ce pas?"(No problem, it works doesn't it?)

Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 8,443
Likes: 3
Member
Easiest way to test your gloves, is to roll them up on a smooth surface (like your truck hood).
Roll them from the cuff end, trapping some air in them, if you get to the top of the palm of the glove, with no resistance felt, the gloves have a hole in them.
This means the glove is no longer fit for safe use and should be got rid of.

It says in my contract with my employer, that I shall make sure that the gloves and outers MUST be kept in the container provided for them, never expose them to sunlight for any length of time and never be stowed with other tools that may puncture or damage them.


Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 27
O
Member
Hey Mike, Do you have any idea what a set of gloves cost

Cheers OA

Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 5,445
Likes: 2
Cat Servant
Member
The glove set I bought ... lowest voltage rating, etc .... cost me about $150. Rubber inners, leather outers, storage bag.

Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 939
F
Member
There is 5 voltage rated class on the gloves.

Class No. / AC test voltage / Max Voltage

00 / 2500V / 500V
0 / 5000V / 1000V
1 / 10000V / 7500V
2 / 20000V / 17000V
3 / 30000V / 26500V

IIRC there is one or two more class gloves which I don't have the listing with me ATM

However I have few diffrent class gloves in my invetory the most common one I use most case is class 0 or 00 depending on the area I have to dealt with it.

The costwise it will be 50€ and up depending on what class and other related items you will need.

Rubber protector { the main glove }
Leather glove
inside liner { there is summer or winter verison }
Carry bag for the set as I mention above.

As far for takeing care the gloves myself and Mike Trumpy explain the prodcure for testing and make sure you keep the gloves clean and properly use it and when you get done or not using for while put it away quick to keep it clean all the time.

Merci,Marc


Pas de problme,il marche n'est-ce pas?"(No problem, it works doesn't it?)

Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 764
K
Member
I use my Class 0's all the time for tying in service drops, working in hot meter enclosures, handholes or pretty much any time I feel there is a high probability of shock.
One thing I would definitely recommend getting is a bottle of glove dust.
This is the only thing that makes these clammy gloves tolerable for extended wear, at least as far as I'm concerned anyway.

I check my Class 0 gloves and leathers before each use and will also test the rubbers annually by throwing them in the trash and replacing them every year since they’re not too expensive without the leather protectors.
Once they get inhibitor or any petroleum based product on them, which is hard not to do, it seems like the clock is already ticking anyway. Sunlight and oxygen eat them up as well, even when stored in their case, I've noticed. Over time, they can end up with soft spots in the palms or oxidation and check marks all around the rolled rubber cuffs.

I'd say if they are Class 0 or 00, unless you already have your own glove tester, I think it is more cost effective to just replace them at regular intervals.
If they are Class I, II, or III gloves, then they are a much more expensive investment and unless noticeably damaged are most likely well worth the cost of testing.

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 300
M
Member
The first time I used hot gloves, It was summer time and I had a heck of a time getting the sweaty, sticky liners off my hands. I went right out and bought a bottle of talcum powder. The only stuff I could find (I didn't really look to hard) was scented.

I've been through a couple of pair of gloves but I still have the same smelly bottle of talcum powder in my glove bag. I always sprinkle some in the gloves and smell like perfume the rest of the day.

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