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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 449
F
Member
For 10 years I have been using a Greenlee SlugBuster ratchet set-1/2"-2". Occasionally I have borrowed a friend's hydraulic Greenlee pump and drawstud. Tuesday I bought my own Greenlee QuickDraw unit and drawstud set. I use the slug splitters from my ratchet set. Punched 40 3/4" and 20 2" KOs yesterday in about 45 minutes. The kit, without any slugbusters, was a little over $600.00! Told my wife it was the most expensive Christmas gift I have ever bought her. She sat out in the shop last evening punching several holes in an old meterbase enclosure. Her only gripe was that I didn't buy one 10 years ago when she was working with me every day. I should have. Next on my list? Rotozip. I've used a plumber friend's on a couple of remodels we did together and they are awsome for cutting in old work boxes in either sheetrock or plaster and lath.

Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,116
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Fred,

I agree about the Rotozip, a very handy tool, although not quite as easy to control as I would like. I've seen different styles of this and some may be better than others, I don't know. First one I ever used I had borrowed from a Cabinet Guy that was small like a palm sander, but couldn't find it in the stores.

One thing I found out is that it is definitele important to get the right bits. Some are made only for wallboard (sheetrock) and only make wood smoke. (had me wondering for awhile what was going on.) [Linked Image]

Bill

[This message has been edited by Bill Addiss (edited 12-06-2002).]


Bill
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,457
E
Member
Another vote for the Rotozip. Excellent point about the bits. Carbide tip is good for plaster, tile etc. Hold on tight!

Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 914
E
Member
We just got rotozips. I had never used one and thought it was just fine for the guys to use a fine tooth sawsall. Then I hired a leadman who said he really wanted one on his truck. I bought one and tried it on a cabinet, I couldn't believe how great it cut without splintering. Yes, it can get away from you, so you have to be carefull, but I won't have a truck without one now.

Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 5,392
S
Member
concerning the roto-zips, is there a particular drill blasde of choice??

Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 257
M
Member
Among other things, they are great for cutting holes in ceiling tiles for recessed lights using the circle cutting attachment.

We did a few jewelery stores that had a lot of recessed lights. Didn't find anything that worked better with less mess.

Placed the tile face up over a trash can and cut. NO MESS and FAST!

Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,116
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Sparky,

I don't know much about all the different types of blades but have learned enough to read the package next time before buying them.

[Linked Image]
Bill


Bill
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 449
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Cutting holes in ceiling tile for cans. My wife bought me a Lennox Grit holesaw for 6" cans for Valentine's Day about 6 years ago. It works great on tile and sheet rock. You can cut tile all day with it chucked in a 14.4V cordless. 4 years ago when we did a satellite campus for IU we had about 70 6" cans to cut in 2x2 tile. The guys doing the grid ceiling set up a jig in a drill press with my can holesaw and punched them out as they went. A carpenter friend of mine has a cordless Rotozip. Now that's the one I want! I haven't seen one in the Toolcrib catalog yet. I didn't have a chance to ask where he got it.

Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,236
Likes: 1
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<threadjack>
I've never tried a rotozip, but my dremel with the plunge attatchment and zip bits I would think would work on the same physical principal.

I think (I really could be wrong, so please feel free to correct me) that the culprit, and trick, to controlling these tools is a strange thing called Gyroscopic Precession .

A force applied to a rotating body will cause a reaction at 90ยบ to the angle of the force.

(I think I got that right)

What this means, is to gain better control of the rototool, apply "up" to go left, "left" to go down "down" to go right and "right" to go up. (Or it could be counter-clockwise), lightly guiding it with just enough pressure to keep it moving, and not really fighting it.

I swear this works for me, could be a figment of my imagination though.

</threadjack>

[This message has been edited by sparky66wv (edited 12-06-2002).]


-Virgil
Residential/Commercial Inspector
5 Star Inspections
Member IAEI
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 466
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Just got one of the Black and Decker laser level/stud finder. Right now its on loan to a friend, he said it found studs his other finder missed. The laser is self leveling, just hang it on a finish nail at the correct height and turn it on. Should work out great for all the countertop receptacles. Got mine for $70 at Big Blue.

I also had the carbide edge hole saw for recessed lights. Worked great in plaster except for the dust, until the carpenter borrowed (stole) it.

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