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Assuming there is a 13a fuse in that inaccessible plug, it won't last too long if they try and use the oven and dishwasher together.

Given the fuse does blow... I already read some pretty bad things about BS1362 fuses (though rather related to short circuits, not overload conditions).

Local isolation switches largely seem to be restricted to countries once influenced by the UK (UK, Ireland, AS, NZ). The first problem for example Austrians usually have traveling to Ireland is how to get the electric stove working... (hostel staff usually run after people making sure the isolator switch is off all the time unless the stove is being used). Typical Continental stove supplies are 5x2.5mm2 run directly off a 3 or 4 pole breaker to the stove flex connector behind the stove. In a TT system a 100mA RCD has been required for hard wired appliances for a long time, in TN systems only since 2003 I think.

Anyway, Imageshack seems to be down today, but the descriptions are good enough... or scary enough. That's the kind of stuff you'd expect DIY morons to do... still, I could imagine something like this happening here too.

I only had the chance to get a closer look at one professionally fitted kitchen and that was simple... they plugged the dishwasher into the provided Schuko socket and just pushed the stove in place without connecting anything. They then told the owner to get an electrician to hook up the cook top and oven (which is how I got there).

Thankfully it was a pre-fitted oven/cook top combo, so all I had to do was install a 5x2.5mm2 flex on the oven, hook it up to the flex outlet in the wall and plug the cook top connections into the oven unit. Worked well, except for the fact that those cheap flex outlets are really tiny for 5 solid and 5 stranded 2.5mm2 wires... took some pushing and squeezing.

Then the owner suddenly asked: "Say, does it matter that we only have a single phase meter? The landlady said that wouldn't be a problem!"

Now the place had just been rewired a month ago, new panel, 5x2.5mm2 feed to the stove supplied from 3 single pole 16A breakers, so I was like: "That can't be true!"

Sure enough, I took off the panel cover and grabbed my meter. L1-N: 230. L2-N: 230. L3-N: 230. L1-L2:0. L2-L3:0. L3-L1: 0. All one phase...

Now I ran out to the meter box. Opening it I found everything wired for a 3 phase meter with 10mm2 wire. Connected to this: the old single phase meter, wired up with a few loose scraps of 2.5mm2 wire, no terminal cover, no seals. All load side phases jumpered.

So if all 3 breakers were on, the neutral would see 48 amps worst case... no way. Actually the main fuse would have limited the current to 25A but still... 25A on a 2.5mm2 wire in conduit is a bit steep. So I instructed the tenant (whom I trust) only to to switch on one of the 3 breakers at a time using parts of the stove until the permanent meter was installed (which happened about a month later).

Tells you a lot about PoCo practice to hear that a temp meter was in place for over 2 months...