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#180468 - 08/26/08 08:53 PM
Re: Help, Compact Flourescents Burning Out!
[Re: staylor]
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Member
Registered: 11/27/07
Posts: 756
Loc: MA, USA
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I find it hard to believe this is due to a poorly made product, if so GE would go out of business at this rate.
Not saying that this is the problem in your case, but... I can’t afford to use GE anymore. In the past, I had so many problems with GE incandescent A-19, BR-30, BR-40 and PAR-38 bulbs as well as their T12, HO and T5 fluorescent and MH tubes that I totally switched my stock over to Sylvania, Phillips and Feit. I have had almost no problems with faulty bulbs for well over three years now. Even the GE 12V/20W T-bulbs I used for Low-voltage undercabinet lighting were trash. The last straw was when I had to go back within 2-weeks after finishing a job to replace three defective BR-30 bulbs for RC cans in a 17-foot ceiling, at my expense, of course. No more GE for me!
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#180475 - 08/27/08 06:24 AM
Re: Help, Compact Flourescents Burning Out!
[Re: frenchelectrican]
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Member
Registered: 10/01/02
Posts: 481
Loc: Huntington Beach, CA, USA
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Oddly enough, I've also seen a disproportionate quantity of 26W fixtures that fail before their time. Problems such as: - Ballasts burn out within the first 1 month to 1 year - Lamps burn out within the first 1 month to 1 year Advance ballast, work horse, etc, seem to all have the same issues. I've been called out to brand new communities with 40+ of these fixtures, and the failure rate within the first 6 months is right around 15%. This would be unheard of with a twin PL-13 lamp and ballast installation, and in my opinion, is completely unacceptible (although having the business is nice  ) I think perhaps this is an engineering issue with the lamp. Sensitive to their own heat output? Overly sensitive to vibration? I would also love some answers on this.
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#180480 - 08/27/08 10:22 AM
Re: Help, Compact Flourescents Burning Out!
[Re: sparkyinak]
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New Member
Registered: 08/26/08
Posts: 5
Loc: AR
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Thanks for the replies so far. I know this is a topic of interest to everyone since most of the new projects are going to CFL's for recessed interior lighting.
The overheating comments are definately a good discussion topic. These CFL's are suppose to run cooler than incandescent, but I'll tell you these things are HOT! I have to let them cool down for a couple of minutes before I can handle them with my bare hands. I don't think the installation is prone to make them hot. The trims are full open clear specular finish, so they're probably going to be as cool as can be expected. The housing is dual Non-IC/IC rated and installed according to the manf. recommendations. There is no insulation covering the housings.
The run times on these fixtures are maybe 8 hours a day tops, usually less. They don't have lots of on/off switching, usually when switched on they will stay on for a reasonable amount of time before being switched off.
The wiring will definately be one of the first places I will check. The lights are on two 3-way switches, circuit is dedicated for the corridor lights only, no shared neutrals. Wiring is simple: 1. panel to switch box 1, 2. switch box to switch box No 2, and 3. Switch box 1 to fixtures. I would have thought other symptoms would be visually present in the lighting if I had bad wiring, but there could be something funny with the ground and neutral that might cause the ballast to function poorly. This circuit isn't really different from any other except maybe the three way switch, but again I have a couple other locations with three ways that aren't burning out like this one.
The power reliabilty to the site isn't the greatest, rural co-op, but nothing out of the ordinary for quality of power when it's working. I have TVSS on the main panel for larger surges. Grounding system is very good, UFER, Grounding grid, and structurally bonded to steel structure.
Hopefully that information will help with some of the comments and questions so far.
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