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#178183 05/25/08 12:01 AM
Joined: Oct 2000
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Attached are pictures of receptacles in boxes that are set too deep in block walls.

Section 314.20

Alan Nadon


[Linked Image from electrical-photos.com]

[Linked Image from electrical-photos.com]

[Linked Image from electrical-photos.com]

[Linked Image from electrical-photos.com]

[Linked Image from electrical-photos.com]

[Linked Image from electrical-photos.com]

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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 193
G
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Unfortunatley i've seen that many times. It's really hard to keep an eye on the block masons when they decide to pour their blocks.


"If common sense was common, everyone would have it"-not sure, someone here

Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 558
R
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Ya thats common I have seen that a lot of times as well!
Looks like the receptacle in the second pic down has taken a bit of abuse also..

A.D

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 745
E
Member
Yep, most look better than half of the crap that we encounter around here. At first, I thought that pic #1 actually looked pretty good. The latest trick around here is to use bond barrels as screw spacers although those THHN "springs" look pretty creative as well. If we could get masons who speak English, we might not have these setback issues. That's another subject.......


---Ed---

"But the guy at Home Depot said it would work."
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,498
T
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Some creative solutions... but looks very familiar. Here the electricians never know how thick the plaster coat is going to be, so they set their boxes in brick walls at a random depth and it's hit or misss if the plasterers have them meet the finished surface. Seen some that were recessed as far as 1/2". Of course mud rings are something you just don't use here... *sarcasm*

Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 97
J
Member
British metal boxes aka backboxes can be set in the wall way below the plaster line, it doesnt really matter. it isnt uncommon to see them 1" below the plaster line, you just use longer screws! This is because our socket and lightswitch fronts are only in one piece so the screws clamp the accessory to the plaster.

I will try to find a picture of one installed somewhere.


I took my time, I hurried up, The choice was mine, I didn't think enough
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,498
T
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Works too, but it's certainly not good practice. If the pasterer manages to leave a funnel shaped hole things get even worse because the face plate won't cover the entire gap...

Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 97
J
Member
Not best practice, no but in my experience it is difficult to get a plasterer to avoid filling a box completely! There is quite a bit of overlap on the socket front so you can get away with a few sins. With care, you can chop a box in and not need to repair the existing plaster.

Not saying they are perfect but seem to be designed around plaster and block walls compared to the ones in the above pictures which seem to be more suited to plasterboard walls.


I took my time, I hurried up, The choice was mine, I didn't think enough
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 7,381
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I would have a issue with some of the gaps around some of the boxes. The THHN springs would not fly, but the 'nut' spacers may be OK. Wonder if the 'springs' compress upon insertion of a plug into the receptacle??

As an AHJ, When I'm on site, the 'rough' is usually stub-up conduit first, and it's extended as the block goes up. The next time I see this may be on final.I have a few random covers pulled. Depending what I see, they may all be required to be pulled, and corrections made.
.


John
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,498
T
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Personally I stuff newspaper or anything else available on site (think empty plaster or cement bags) into the boxes to keep them from being plastered. There are proper anti-mortar covers too.

Things get real nice once you have boxes tiled over...

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