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SteveFehr #174288 01/31/08 12:50 PM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,930
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OTOH you could just say that water pipe transitions to plastic right outside the wall (and it might) then you are only doing 250.104 bonding.


Greg Fretwell
gfretwell #174292 01/31/08 02:06 PM
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 301
J
JValdes Offline OP
Member
Greg, I am asumming that you are correct about the water supply pipe being PVC. I haven't been in the crawl space yet. I gotta go now but I will check out 250.104 as soon as I get back. Depending on the inspector, I will most likely have to run a #2 all the way from the new 400 to the water line under the house and within four foot of where it enters. 150 feet. This is going to be an issue as it cannot be run underground. It has to travel through the garage, the breezeway, the house, then down through the house then over to the water line. I hope the inspector can make life a little easier. The customer said if he has to he will hire a carpenter to detach the garage, even if it is only a few inches. But then I have a common slab to content with. Anyone see an issue with the slab?

JValdes #174296 02/01/08 12:29 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,429
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LK Offline
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Why wold detaching it change things?

yur only hope is the water main is Plastic.

This running of the GEC on jobs like this is a common thing, I can't see why the owner is all bent out of shape.

LK #174408 02/04/08 11:53 AM
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 301
J
JValdes Offline OP
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Detaching the garage would allow for a second service drop, eliminating the long bonding conductor run. Two rods bonded at the new service and your done. Since the structures are connected only one service drop is permitted.


SteveFehr #174627 02/09/08 11:11 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,233
H
Member
Greg,

Can't JValdes run a 3 wire from the house to the garage, and drive ground rods at the garage and tie the neutrals/grounds together at the garage and make it a sub feeder or sub service? This would also protect an out building if the out building had a metal or gas pipe from the house to the out building. Right?

harold endean #174631 02/10/08 01:13 AM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 141
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I don't usually comment on technical things but this one - I gotta say this:

Please don't use a separate grounding connection to the planet(earth) to the sub-panel.

We've run into a couple of cases where this happened and it leads to all kinds of problems. Corrosion of ground connections is one of them, depending on the soil conditions that you might run into. It's a problem that happens almost right away - within a few days sometimes, the connectors tying into the earth (water pipe, ground rod/plate - whatever)grow a lovely white insulating substance on them and the lights and all the household electronics start to go all weirdo on everybody as the EGC's go a bit resistive and start to get significant voltage differences between the EGC and the neutrals in the separate panels.

This is not to mention the possible damage to the metal water pipes that might be tied into the vicinity, which could be a whole other set of problems down the road. (Not for you, mind you, just the poor unlucky turd herder that can't figure out how come the pipes are rotting away so quickly).

We now know it's best to just run good old #6 or #4 copper, in your case, if it's a longer run, right back to the main panelboard and tie it all together neatly in one spot to one connection to good old planet earth.

Check Pilot #174643 02/10/08 11:47 AM
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,335
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I do not know how sub panels are wired in Canada, but it sounds like to me the sub panel had the neutral and ground bonded. That is a no no in the US unless the feeder does not include a grounding conductor. Of the sub was not bonded and no grounding conuctor was with the feeder and you had ground fault that was not clearing (long shot).


"Live Awesome!" - Kevin Carosa
sparkyinak #174644 02/10/08 12:05 PM
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 558
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Re: Canadian sub panels: I think they are the same here as in the U.S.. The neutral must NOT be bonded to the enclosure, unless it is fed by a separate 3-wire sub service which in that case you would have to bond the neutral and drive rods or use a plate.. Personally I agree with Check Pilot 100%.. Separate bonding conductor back to the main, and ONE connection between the earth and your neutrals. Way less headaches and chances of weird things happening.

A.D

JValdes #174654 02/10/08 04:53 PM
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 362
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Could you run a conduit to the house from the garage and use #2 as the ground. Then continue the #2 to the water pipe. The rods would terminate at the main as well as the sub panel, water pipe. As long as the ground and neutral and ground are separate you are good to go. I think 250.30 allows this. Please correct me if i'm wrong:)

Ob


Choose your customers, don't let them choose you.
Obsaleet #174669 02/11/08 11:13 AM
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 301
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JValdes Offline OP
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Obsaleet,
Yes, That is exactly what must be done. It (bond conductor) does not have to be in conduit though. Also, I can pull three wires if I use metal conduit which I will not do. So it's 4 wires and the long bonding conductor run.

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