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mbhydro #171970 12/09/07 09:18 PM
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 853
L
Member
So i am wrong. I still have not seen them in electric rms other than portables.
I have been duley "spanked".
In the true election year spirit.. I will maintain that I have been misunderstood and misquoted!
It was a botched joke.. etc...etc..

The only real electrical settings where I have seen "total flood" applications are in some Transformers and turbines.Non habitable enclosures.

mbhydro: The FM-200 is the replacement for the Halon,(Made in MO.) since you cannot alter or install halon any longer. The good news is the FM breaks down in only 12 mil. yrs instead of the halons 15 mil.

Additionaly, watermist is becomeing a very popular form of suppression. It cools and smothers the fire at once. The water is atomized so very little is needed. Very cool system.This also is used in some gas turbines.

leland #171971 12/09/07 09:22 PM
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,148
R
Member
Actually there is no extinguishing agent that puts out electrical fires...there is only one way to do that...stop the flow of current. The Class C extinguishers only put out the material that the electrical fire has ignited. All the Class C rating means is that the agent is not conductive.
Don


Don(resqcapt19)
resqcapt19 #172026 12/11/07 03:05 AM
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 8,443
Likes: 3
Member
Oddly enough guys,
When the electrical cabling and switchgear that fed the Glenbrook steel mill caught fire over here back in the early '90's, the initial fire-fighting effort by workers at the place caused a lot of equipment to be junked.
The reason being old BCF (Bi-carbonate foam) extinguishers that were used caused the electrical gear to corrode beyond recognition, Dry powder also has this effect.
Personally, I would use C02 as my preferred extinguisher for most types of fire, where not given any other choice, C02 in an extinguisher has better "knock-down" properties than any other extinguisher of it's size, you just have to know how to place the agent well.
But bear in mind, an extinguisher of any type is meant for a small fire, if the fire you are fighting grows larger, get the hell out of it's way and never, but never, let the fire get between you and your means of exit!
Just my $0.02 worth.

Trumpy #172165 12/14/07 10:03 PM
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 19
F
Member
Some good info and some inaccurate info.
Class A is wood, paper, ordinary combustables
Class B is flammable liqueds
Class C is energized electrical fires.
Class D is burning metals.

A dry chemical, halon, halotron fire extinguisher is pressurized between 100 PSI and 195 PSI. A water fire extinguisher is pressurized between 100 PSI and 150 PSI. A CO 2 is pressurized to 700 PSI, bu the "snow" comes out at a low pressure. However, it you take the hose off, and discharge the CO2 extinguisher, you will realize there is a lot of pressure in the tank. The hose has a wire braid under the rubber cover. The wire braid conducts static electricity to the tank. If the wire braid is comprimised, enough static electricity can be generated to cause a spark to ignite flammable liqueds. A CO2 w/o a hose, 2.5 # or 5 # CO2 will generate enough static to be felt through your pants, especially on a cold day.

The water mist extinguisher is safe to use on energized electrical fire because pure water is not electrically conductive. Water w/minerals is electrically conductive. If a water mist is used, it must be recharged w/deioinized water. Amerex sells DI water to recharge the water mist FX.

If I have not completly bored you, go to How
Stuff Works then search for fire extinguishers.

fireguy

fireguy #172166 12/14/07 10:32 PM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 814
B
Member
I still would like to see the video from the OP, but I can't get my flash to work. I have tried everything including un installing and re installing it, still no U Tube. I hope there are some computer gerus out there that can offer me some pointers.................B

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