ECN Forum Forums General Topics of the Trade General Discussion Area Gangable cut-in box routing instructions

I imagine a rotozip handles like a router (it basically an HO guage router anyway)
I do know you need to cut into the direction of the cutter so it is fighting your advance, not "helping" you. Otherwise it will get away from you. You also want the cutter holding you against a guide if you are using one. I may not be explaining it right but I do have some arrows scratched into the case of my router to remind me which way to set up the piece.

No matter how hard you try, you just can’t cut fine wood work with a pair of Kleins, and make it look good. This is exactly why I exclude cutting patching and painting on my proposals. The template is a good idea but you are still on the hook if it comes out wrong, even if it’s not your fault. What works well for me is I give them a cut-in box and a plate to use as a template, if they screw that up than they can blame Raco and Hubbell.

Sometimes even if there is room....

Alan other than that, hows the tractor?

I also agree that a roto-zip does take some getting used to, but once you do, it becomes a tool of choice. With a sharp wood bit, and a steady hand you can cut a wide variety of things... If I remember correctly - the guy who started the brand (now owned by bosch) was an electrician? Who modified laminate router bits to dive cut wood, and essentially repurposed routers. Basically put what he saw rockers do to new uses - and branded a name....

All the ideas on templates are great, but I'm gonna stick with paper, or pdf that I can leave on my site. As I have found out before, if I hand off the template, I'm never going to see it again.

There are also pre-made templates available. scroll about half way down til you get to the EZCut.

http://www.hometech.com/tools/general.html

Not to pick nits, but necessary is spelled wrong. Great idea. Nice template.

Cut from left to right on an edge facing you, and go clockwise cutting holes. I try to use bearing guided cutters if possible in a template or on a staight edge, and don't buy cheap cutters. Take small cuts commensurate with the power and diameter of the bit. The 1/2" Makita is 2.5hp and with care and a good grip I have freehanded 2" diameter molding bits, but a table mounted machine is safer for the inexperienced. A table mounted machine usually cuts wood right to left. Norm has a good table design on the NYW site.
Tractor is on hold, other urgent stuff withstanding, but due for a paint job this summer if I can get her off the bloody thing!


Alan

I measure a standard cover plate as being a tad more than 4-3/8" high. The 4-1/4" you spec for the routed-out area is pushing right to the hairy edge of that. I'd feel more comfortable with 4-1/8" there.

Also, found the note, 'Optional 1/8"+ routed area', to be unclear. (As in, I couldn't figure out what the heck you were talking about.) Now that I've figured out what you were talking about, the notes make sense. But I had a hard time getting there from the notes. (I guess I saying that I found it confusing, but I don't know how to state it more clearly.)

"but I don't know how to state it more clearly." Well that seems to be my problem too. Its a tough thing to decribe...

The little routed out area is only for screwless plates, as most of the Lutron devices end up being proud of the surface once the plate goes on when using this type of box. Plastic boxes end up sticking out more...

That was part of my problem in trying understanding this, as I have never actually seen a switchbox that was mounted using recesses like you are describing. Were it not for the fact that I happen to have an Insteon dimmer with precisely that problem (to wit, I tried to put a screwless plate on it, and it stood out from the wall, so I reverted to a standard screw-on plate), I probably never would have figured out what you were talking about.

One tool I always have on the truck is a very coarse wood file, half round. It can eat away material quickly, just make sure to push downward on veneered surfaces! This way I cut my box holes tight, and can open them up a bit if need be. The round side is great for those riser holes that are a tad off.

I use the blue tape too, only I put it on my jig saw shoe instead of on the cabinet