ECN Forum Forums General Topics of the Trade Business Related Discussion Crumbling Plaster Batman!

It sucks to have to go back and patch the hole for free, but this afterall your business and your customer. How you want to treat them is up to you. I can tell you that if you cut a hole in one of my walls and did not come back to fix it you wouldn't be working in my house again.

I think the ROTO-ZIP is a great tool but it makes an awful lot of dust when cutting plaster walls. So instead of using the ROTO-ZIP to cut out for the box, I like to do what I call the "swiss cheese method."

First, I use a PENCIL to mark out my box (I prefer to use an old-work metal gem box because it usually fits just right in between 2 cutout pieces of lathe). Then I use a half-inch Irwin speed bit and gently chip-away the plaster until just the lathe is left. Then I use the ROTO-ZIP to cut out the lathe. Now I'm ready pull the wire and attach the box using long leg Madison bars.

Good luck.

The plaster will hold together better if you put the blue painters tape on the wall before you cut it. After cutting the hole (and through the blue tape) pull the remaining tape off.

Always keep quick set 5 min easy sand in the truck with a 6" knife for such situations. Also like the lightwieght stuff in the plastic container. It works on small holes only. I draw the line on painting. I have gotten plenty of work because I included patching.

Ob

Hello

for old work patching is part of the job...

the best repair for old plaster is durabond 90 or 45 (hot mud) mix as thick as you can, and let it cure untill almost hard but can be shaved with a putty knife for a big hole use metal lath

a sheet of metal lath and a bag of durabond will cost under 15 bucks you don't need to carry much, just a few small pieces of lath and a coffee can of durabond will be plenty for a service truck.

incidently for repairs in wood molding I prefer rock hard water putty

Tag Taggart

Plaster is very hard to work, I know because I have done alot of plaster wall, I have found the the best way is to use painter taps mark out the box and get a new sheetrockers jab saw drill the corners and cut slow. if possible I try to cut the plaster first then go after the lath (if Wood) you may run into rock lath which is an early version of sheet rock. Most of the damage comes when trying to snake the wire. The best method for this is Jack chain with a weighted end(if coming top down) if going bottom up use a snake with a smaller piece to reteive. Never attempt to put your hand in the hole this could be very damaging to the plaster.Also look @ wall fromside priop tu cutting you can ussually tell where the plaster is loose and try to avoid cutting there and tell the home owner up front that there is the potential that you will have to possibly repair wall @ an added cost.

when dealing with older plaster...make sure the owner knows you'll do your best, but "patching" may be required...
and that "antique" wallpaper might not be able to be matched...
i put in some switches in a dining room where half the wall fell away!! glad i mentioned "patching by others"!!!

[This message has been edited by electricbill (edited 02-28-2007).]

Spackle, lightweight or not, hardens in the winter if left out in the truck in temperatures below freezing. Liquid nails and caulk too! This is usually the case for me. I keep a box of plaster of Paris on the truck. It's worked well for me. You just got to work fast because hardens quickly.