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I had a AHJ once that said everything was great on final,but would not sign off in the final inspection block on the electrical permit until I put the GFIC protected sticker on the down stream duplex(this was after he tested it to see if was really protected).This was in the kitchen where ther were lots of GFICs and LABELED protected duplexes.
Chris

Is it just me or does that sink look backwards?

Trainwire

Chris,

The countertop should only be about 25" deep. I did not think that the measurement you are asking about would count unless the countertop had an inside corner and continued. I would have started the first one where it is and then measured for the 4'. Am I wrong in my assumption. I have never gotten gigged on this.

Jim M,
It looks close however the code says,for counter tops, outlets shall be installed so that no point along the WALL LINE is more than 24 inches,measured horizontally from a receptacle in that space.
I suppose that this means to me that the GFIC rec should be located no more than 24in from the edge of the counter(along the wall line) and the next one no more than 48in away from the first one.
Chris

Virgil:
Damn nice job. If I read this post earlier?, I would have typed "coping saw, dremel w/abrasive wheel & scribe to fit".

BTW: You have to be the only guy who can start a thread & get mucho replies.
John

Chris,

In the houses that I'm given the liberty to lay out the design, I put more than twice as many recepts in a kitchen, and just like you're pointing out, I make darn sure that there are enough and in the right places. In fact, I would use 2 gang boxes and have the circuits alternate.

I'd say just about every room has a spacing violation, but I was obligated to place them where the plans showed in order to line up with the designers furniture layout; bogus, I know.

In this particular situation, I would have ganged a recept with the "Pig" switch (lone one on right) to aid in giving enough receptacles for the area.

Oh, the poor designer guy keeps confusing me with some dude named "Darling". Must've been quite an accident...



John, Thanks!

Uh, controversy, it's a talent!

Or maybe I just ask Q's that anybody's grandma could answer and the rest of you guys stump everybody with your more intelligent Q's?

Just a theory...

[This message has been edited by sparky66wv (edited 10-10-2002).]

66,
I think I would let Mr Designer Guy(????) meet the inspector and address him as Mr Darling.
Chris

Chris,

Unfortunately, no AHJ, 'cept for the Service Inspection for the Poco.

Wish there were, I'd be worth twice as much $$$ here...

I have done many rough's in custom homes over the years and this is what I have come up with.
1. Walk through job with home owner,Contractor,and cabinet maker first.
2. Using a benchmark instead of the floor for heights is a must.(this assures perfect heights).
3. If it is a definite location then mount a box,leave slack everywhere posible.If your unsure then float the wire,leave pleanty of slack for relocation and draw an asbuilt for reference after sheetrock goes up.
4. do a walkthru just before sheetrock goes up(again).
5. make any final adjustments.
6. If your still off, then CHARGE-CHARGE-CHARGE...$$$

66, I agree on the basic color idea, could be why my daughter and wife will not let me match clothes for special occasions. I am also surprised no one mentioned my 2 favorite tools to fix this, sawzall and roto-zip! P.S. The rest of the job looks good.

[This message has been edited by spkjpr (edited 10-10-2002).]