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It has come to light that in South-Eastern WV, there is an inspector that no one likes. Apparently, he averages about 2 or 3 trips per inspection call, charging for each time. Rumor has it that he has never passed an inspection the first time, always finding something wrong. He makes rounds here and I'd like to put an end to this "all-fail" trend. I'm going to get his name and number, and call him up on the next service I do, which will probably be early next week. I want your help "in tearing me a new one" so I'm prepared for anything. I want to pass with no exceptions, buts, ifs, or whatever the first time he comes. My goal is to dumbfound him, if nothing but just to knock him down to earth a little bit. I also want to see if the rumors are true, heck, he might just be a good inspector who's never seen a code compliant installation, which wouldn't surprise me. Apparently, there's been enough complaints that the Fire Marshal is becoming involved, but that doesn't mean the guy is a menace, he could just be like one of us and sick of tired of what he sees. Tom, they ain't talkin' 'bout you, are they? Anyway... The GEC Connector thread has convinced me to use a raceway for the GEC. It should be Sched. 80, right? Anything else stick out? Master66 and Tom, you guys know the PoCo requirements, what say you? Rip it apart!
-Virgil Residential/Commercial Inspector 5 Star Inspections Member IAEI
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I should either use a 20A receptacle or a 15A CB, just to avoid the "single receptacle" controversy...
Spacers behind the enclosure to ensure 1/4" spacing from the masonry...
Even if you can't find a violation, if you have an idea of anything in a gray area, go for it...
Thanks!
Is THWN Rated for SE use? It's sunlight resistant and listed for CT use...
I plan to either document the torque on an index card for each connection, or actually do like the guys in CA who wait to terminate with the inspector witnessing the torquing...
What about minimum bending radii?
What do y'all think?
Heck, I even used sealing rings on the PVC nipple... I want to be prepared for anything!
[This message has been edited by sparky66wv (edited 09-19-2002).]
-Virgil Residential/Commercial Inspector 5 Star Inspections Member IAEI
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spark, Looks nice. I like the sealing rings! How long are your drip loop tails? What did you use to attach the raceway to the building? If you're referring to bending radius on L1 on the load side of the meter socket, I can't see any alternative.
Make sure you update us! BTW, what are the black (index?) marks on the terminal screws ?
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Looks good from here. You should have saved some phasing tape for the next service Just kidding.THWN Is good for SE here in south TX.. If you do get failed it may be for the GEC not being protected from physical damage (lawn mowing, etc) also shouldn't the meter can be bonded or somehow continuous to the panel ?? I would like to know. The meter cans we get here have a terminal for the bare #6 Looks like the old service should have been failed, for the 3' rule from windows,openings. The old service looks like its right on the window sill [This message has been edited by Sean WB (edited 09-19-2002).]
I did not get as think so badly as you shocked I did.
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Drip loops are 30"+, PoCo requires 24". Black Index marks are to indicate that the teminations have been torqued to specs. George Corron suggested it in the "Torque Specs" thread. I know of no other way to convince them I've used a torque wrench. Good eye Redsy, the conduit "straps" are actually 2" "mineralac" hangers, which I have been suspicious whether or not they are listed for vertical pipe. But they give a nice 1/2" spacing that lines up perfectly with the 2" Hub offset... But you have a good point if they aren't listed. The meter is bonded through the Grounded Conductor. The neutral terminal block is mounted without insulation to the meter can. My PoCo doesn't want any conductors in their meter cans except for the lines, loads, and noodles (neutrals). Absolutely no GECs or bond wires! Additional bonding between the Metercan and Disco will actually provide a parallel path for neutral current and should be avoided. Keep 'em coming! You won't hurt my feelings! Oh yes, should I paint the GC white rather than tape for the "permanent means" controversy? What paint is listed for the use? My point of attachment anchor and PVC and Weather head are just over 36" from the windows. Kosher? I also plan to use PVC for the conduit to the GFCI recept rather than an offset nipple. The bubble cover can't be opened 90ยบ the way it is... [This message has been edited by sparky66wv (edited 09-19-2002).]
-Virgil Residential/Commercial Inspector 5 Star Inspections Member IAEI
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'66
Speaking to the bending radius on L1, around here, contractors and poco alike will take the conductor(s) completely around the inside of the meter enclosure to avoid sharp bends. Lay this one in the lower left lug coming from 10:30. Adds about 2' to the length of the conductor.
Al
Al Hildenbrand
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Virgil: I Like the use of the wire ties to dress the GFCI circuit. Question: Assuming that this service will eventually replace the one existing (due to the large lugs), how and where will the new service enter the building? Any info to share about what the old service consists of? Just curious. Very nice installation. Much better then many I have seen. Mike (mamills) [This message has been edited by mamills (edited 09-19-2002).]
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Nice work!
However, the point of attachment?
Where will it be located?
I see the possibility of the conductors being located less than 3 feet from the windows that can be opened.
Your inspector charges for inspections?
Is he a third party?
[This message has been edited by Joe Tedesco (edited 10-20-2003).]
Joe Tedesco, NEC Consultant
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Intersting History: The Bank of Williamsburg was built in 1920 and opened in 1921. It closed for business on Black Thursday, the banker attempted suicide by driving off the Sinking Creek Bridge, but failed. He went home and shot himself and succeeded. Later it was used as a merchantile. There is an apartment upstairs. The brick was made on site, and are solid with no holes. Lots of oak inside, and really neat light fixtures that I'll probably rebuild with new sockets and wire. I'll have pix of the inside when I get there the next time. The building was wired 20 years before power came to the town. Here's the original service entrance: Here's the pad that secured the genset: Later, a 200A service was installed, probably in the late 60's early 70's. This pix shows three generations of service equipment: A really neat old building! [This message has been edited by sparky66wv (edited 09-19-2002).]
-Virgil Residential/Commercial Inspector 5 Star Inspections Member IAEI
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Forgot to mention that the inside will be gutted for the most part, and something to run power tools on is all they want for the time being.
Joe, the Point of Attachment is about 6" below and 8" to the right of the weatherhead.
I had similar concerns, but my AHJ and the PoCo engineer aparently had no problems with it. The Triplex will pass in front of the right window, and will be close enough to concern me. For the job coming up, this won't be a concern.
Yes, the inspector is third party.
Thanks!
OK, now I'm running late....
[This message has been edited by sparky66wv (edited 09-19-2002).]
-Virgil Residential/Commercial Inspector 5 Star Inspections Member IAEI
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