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#142895 03/14/05 12:58 PM
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Sounds as though it's probably just a regular series motor then, where the top no-load speed will be limited by the design of the motor.

It shouldn't be too difficult to disable the electric braking, although you'd need to trace the wiring to make the necessary changes. Maybe Trumpy's service manual he found has a wiring diagram. How about it Mike? [Linked Image]

The electric braking doesn't come into play until you release the trigger, at which point you have already cut off power, so there's no danger of the motor taking off if you disable the brake!

I can't see any safety concerns, other than the obvious one that the blade will continue rotating for longer when you release the trigger.

But then as you're not a HSE inspector, you'd use common sense and not grab it until it stopped wouldn't you? [Linked Image]



[This message has been edited by pauluk (edited 03-14-2005).]

#142896 03/14/05 02:50 PM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 24
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pauluk,

I think I'm just gonna look for an older model without a brake and cut that up to make the mods.

To alter it I'm gonna need an electrician. Firstly 'cos I'm a thick chippie and second 'cos I can see most electricians not wanting to do this from the safety point of view. i.e. if I do something daft and get hurt they might get the blame for overiding a safety feature.

Where are you based? :-)

Dave

[This message has been edited by davelloyd (edited 03-14-2005).]

#142897 03/15/05 07:53 AM
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Quote
Firstly 'cos I'm a thick chippie
Well, I reckon you'd probably make a better job than the "pro" who did this wiring. [Linked Image]

Quote
Where are you based? :-)
Norfolk coast, about 20 miles NE of Norwich.

Whereabouts are you? Don't think any of us have thought to ask yet.

#142898 03/15/05 10:23 AM
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 8,443
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Guys,
As far as Service Manuals go, this one has to be one of the more useless ones.
In fact to be honest the only real info it had was how to replace the brushes.
Sorry but no circuit diagram, you have to plead poverty before the manufacturer will give you them these days.
But, I did note that the trigger switch has 6 wire terminals.
Now I'm only guessing here, but it sounds to me like the trigger switch may have a momentary set of contacts that reverse the field or armature windings when the trigger is released, thereby slowing the motor.
Just a thought. [Linked Image]

#142899 03/15/05 04:59 PM
Joined: Nov 2004
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Both,

I'm in the West Midlands. Lucky aren't I?

I thought about asking that guy about rewiring my saw for about two seconds :-)

Freud, the manufacturer say not to use the dado with a breked machine because the sudden stop could cause the nut to loosen....

Now I'm thinking the simple answer would be to us twn nuts. One to hold the dado and a second to lock the first nut into place.

Dave

#142900 03/15/05 10:29 PM
Joined: Jul 2002
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Dave,
Just to be on the safe side,
I'd use a bit of Loctite thread-locking adhesive on the thread.
I'm not that keen on the idea of modifying the safety parts of electrical appliances, especially Power tools.
I'm reminded of a guy that mucked around with a Bench grinder here recently.
When he started it up, the excessive speed caused the grinding wheel to shatter and a piece of it flew through the corrugated iron wall behind the bench, leaving a large ragged hole.
The guy just stood there reflecting on what had just happened. [Linked Image]
Electric motors can't tell what is on the end of them, they just drive it.
Good luck with the Dado saw!. [Linked Image]

#142901 03/16/05 08:15 PM
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 161
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I looked up the Makita 5903R and it seems to be a handheld circular saw? A dado set in one of those looks to me like a quick suicide route! 8-) Never mind it being overloaded?

A spindle moulder with a wobble saw or adjustable groover and a high fence, or just with a router cutter adaptor? Again a bit pricey though. I take it a router is out of the running?

A lot of distributers seem to have stopped selling dado sets, but Dewalt still seem to be making them, so try their saws. They certainly make dado fitting parts for their radial arm saws and table saws, and they won't cost you £3000.

#142902 03/16/05 11:25 PM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 24
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I know this sounds scary

I need something like in the picture but not quite as extreme!
http://www.thesitebuilder.net/yoxall/skildado1.jpg

Dave

#142903 03/18/05 05:27 PM
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That looks like the worm-drive Skilsaw in that pic. Never used one, but I've heard good reports on them.

#142904 03/19/05 11:32 AM
Joined: Nov 2004
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It is an old 10" wormdrive saw. I have a couple of 7 1/4" ones and find them really good. Far better than the sidewinders we can only get in the U.K. No looking over the top of the machine to see the blade.

These were hard to get so I don't want to start altering them as they're just too useful for everything else.

Dave

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