#115542 - 11/10/03 04:59 PM
Re: Repair Garages
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Member
Registered: 09/15/01
Posts: 808
Loc: Bergen County, NJ
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Are those EMT connectors coming into the bottom of the sealoffs???
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#115544 - 11/10/03 05:40 PM
Re: Repair Garages
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Member
Registered: 09/15/01
Posts: 808
Loc: Bergen County, NJ
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Well, EMT isn't allowed in a Class 1 Div 2 area per 501.4(B), assuming that this is power wiring not exempted under 501.4(B)3.
If the conduit is rigid or IMC, then the use of EMT connectors on it would be a violation of listing requirements under 110.3(B).
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#115546 - 11/11/03 05:46 PM
Re: Repair Garages
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Member
Registered: 05/18/02
Posts: 1779
Loc: N.C.
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Electure, did you check to see if the sealoffs were filled?
Roger
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#115547 - 11/11/03 06:39 PM
Re: Repair Garages
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Member
Registered: 08/07/02
Posts: 1084
Loc: Milwaukee, WI
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Would somebody please "translate" this into layman's terms?
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#115548 - 11/11/03 06:58 PM
Re: Repair Garages
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Member
Registered: 09/15/01
Posts: 808
Loc: Bergen County, NJ
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Some areas in repair garages are considered "classified areas", primarily because of the potential for fuel vapor buildup. Wiring in such areas is subject to very demanding requirements, including the use of rigid or IMC conduit, threaded connections, explosionproof boxes and fixtures, and proper sealing to prevent flammable vapors from moving through the conduit to remote locations.
The fittings shown here are called "sealoffs" or "EY seals", and are used to physically seal the conduit at the boundary of the hazardous area. After the wires are pulled, a liquid sealing compound is poured into the fitting (through the plugs with the square recesses), which fills up the spaces around the wires and prevents flammable vapors from passing the seal.
The use of EMT fittings could allow flames and hot gases from a vapor explosion inside the conduit system to ignite the surrounding atmosphere. Only threaded connections are allowed here.
The requirements for wiring in hazardous locations are spelled out in Articles 500 and 501 of the NEC.
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#115549 - 11/11/03 10:27 PM
Re: Repair Garages
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Member
Registered: 07/18/03
Posts: 377
Loc: Denver, CO USA
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Maybe the water line will rupture and put out the fire after the explosion. a 3/4 line would really help then
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#115551 - 11/12/03 07:30 AM
Re: Repair Garages
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Member
Registered: 08/07/02
Posts: 1084
Loc: Milwaukee, WI
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Thanks for the explanation!
Reminds me of the saying that a chain is as strong as its weakest link...
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#115552 - 11/14/03 06:05 AM
Re: Repair Garages
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Moderator
Member
Registered: 12/24/00
Posts: 3978
Loc: Fullerton, CA USA
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There are occasions that sealoffs are installed, and they don't get poured. They're made in both horizontal and vertical pour versions (and some that swivel), but none that can defy gravity...S [This message has been edited by electure (edited 11-14-2003).]
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#115553 - 11/14/03 08:29 AM
Re: Repair Garages
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Member
Registered: 07/05/02
Posts: 8344
Loc: SI,New Zealand
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Electure, With the filling compound in the conduit, if you need to remove a wire for some reason, is this still possible?. Or does this stuff stay liquid?. BTW, this is the only area of work here in New Zealand where Steel Conduit is still required. I've done a few "Hazardous Area" jobs- equivalent to the US "Classified Areas", sort of. Just in Service-Stations and Spray-Painting Booths, nothing too serious!. 
_________________________
Let's face it, these days if you're not young, you're old - Red Green
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#115554 - 11/14/03 08:30 AM
Re: Repair Garages
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Member
Registered: 08/27/03
Posts: 30
Loc: Yuma, Arizona USA
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I second Roger's inquiry .. I have never seen a filled sealout that didn't have slop-over on the sides .. that looks too clean and would suspect that the sealouts are not filled. ERFERTT
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#115555 - 11/14/03 01:24 PM
Re: Repair Garages
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Member
Registered: 09/23/03
Posts: 101
Loc: Raleigh
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Well, you have got the prints to ID the electrician who installed them. Send him the red tag!
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#115556 - 11/15/03 03:00 PM
Re: Repair Garages
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Member
Registered: 07/25/02
Posts: 671
Loc: Bangor Me. USA
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Trumpy As one who lives in the Exp. prf. world, let me answer your question. Yes, chico can be removed sometimes, I 've done it many times. In fact I've done without hurting the wires and have pulled new ones right beside the old ones. I've also seen bad daming so the Chico went down the pipe and made the pipe unusable. Patience, a dull screw driver and a shop vac works to remove the old compound.If you are pulling all new wires its easier to replace the fitting. I could drive around and show you hundreds of sealing fittings with nothing in them.  . I poured about 20 or so last week on a job. We used existing pipes and none of them were sealed when we started 
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