ECN Electrical Forum - Discussion Forums for Electricians, Inspectors and Related Professionals
ECN Shout Chat
ShoutChat
Recent Posts
Do we need grounding?
by gfretwell - 04/06/24 08:32 PM
UL 508A SPACING
by tortuga - 03/30/24 07:39 PM
Increasing demand factors in residential
by tortuga - 03/28/24 05:57 PM
Portable generator question
by Steve Miller - 03/19/24 08:50 PM
240V only in a home and NEC?
by dsk - 03/19/24 06:33 AM
New in the Gallery:
This is a new one
This is a new one
by timmp, September 24
Few pics I found
Few pics I found
by timmp, August 15
Who's Online Now
0 members (), 96 guests, and 10 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
Page 2 of 2 1 2
#103471 08/19/02 08:11 AM
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 18
K
Member
Who pulls them out? It's cheaper to leave them in and drive another. To drive them down, ever use water? Plunge the rod up and down, like clearing the tiolet, adding water all the time. It's a poor man's roto-hammer.


kduke
Stay up to Code with the Latest NEC:


>> 2023 NEC & Related Reference & Exam Prep
2023 NEC & Related Reference & Study Guides

Pass Your Exam the FIRST TIME with the Latest NEC & Exam Prep

>> 2020 NEC & Related Reference & Study Guides
 

#103472 08/26/02 09:23 PM
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 518
J
Member
We do ground rods somewhat differently here.
First of all, we have to use a 10' rod. Since our ground has a lot of rock and hardpan, this means that about half the time it is necessary to bang in two rods (at least 6' apart) the 7-8' that they'll go.
Secondly, it's dry out here. The inspectors like to see the rods somewhat away from the wall, at the roof's drip line. Every bit of moiosture helps conductivity.
We are required to use #4 (1/4") solid wire
(or larger). The wire must be within EMT all the way to the ground rod.
Finally, the inspector likes to have the rod project out of the ground a few inches, so he can inspect the proof mark that identifies the rod (so a short rod isn't just cut off, then the saw marks banged up some).
I use a demolition hammer- slightly larger than a "roto hammer", but smaller than a "jack hammer." I also use a "post pounder-" a length of pipe with handles, and a good, heavy slug of steel at the end. (Good welding class project!)
Finally, a problem I've encountered with service changes is that old buildings frequently have footings about 5' down that project out some distance from the wall. Lots of luck with the ground rod if you hit them!

Page 2 of 2 1 2

Link Copied to Clipboard
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5