ECN Electrical Forum - Discussion Forums for Electricians, Inspectors and Related Professionals
ECN Shout Chat
ShoutChat
Recent Posts
Safety at heights?
by gfretwell - 04/23/24 03:03 PM
Old low volt E10 sockets - supplier or alternative
by gfretwell - 04/21/24 11:20 AM
Do we need grounding?
by gfretwell - 04/06/24 08:32 PM
UL 508A SPACING
by tortuga - 03/30/24 07:39 PM
Increasing demand factors in residential
by tortuga - 03/28/24 05:57 PM
New in the Gallery:
This is a new one
This is a new one
by timmp, September 24
Few pics I found
Few pics I found
by timmp, August 15
Who's Online Now
1 members (Scott35), 235 guests, and 27 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
Page 2 of 2 1 2
#100306 11/12/06 01:04 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,507
G
Member
Thanks Roger- You beat me to the punch. I was looking it up when your post came through.


George Little
Stay up to Code with the Latest NEC:


>> 2023 NEC & Related Reference & Exam Prep
2023 NEC & Related Reference & Study Guides

Pass Your Exam the FIRST TIME with the Latest NEC & Exam Prep

>> 2020 NEC & Related Reference & Study Guides
 

#100307 11/12/06 01:14 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,391
I
Moderator
Thanks George and Roger.

Quote
BTW removing paint may lead to rust problems in the future. Always repaint over the bonded connection after it's all terminated and tightened.

The removal of paint is required by 250.12 if it is inhibiting the connection.

So IMO if reducing washers or chase nipples are used the paint would have to be removed to ensure grounding continuity.


Bob Badger
Construction & Maintenance Electrician
Massachusetts
#100308 11/12/06 05:41 PM
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,716
R
Member
Hello George and Iwire, I know one of you would have posted the UL info if I hadn't.

This is one situation where I would not argue with an inspector if he did not accept it even though UL says it is safe.

As a matter of fact, it wouldn't be an issue because I wouldn't do it or let an employee do it. [Linked Image]

Roger

#100309 11/13/06 12:43 AM
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 821
S
Member
Thanks for all the insight guys. Seems to me that it's in fact a code-worthy installation, but not a preferred method. It's good to know the difference.

#100310 11/13/06 04:26 PM
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 272
L
Member
Quote
Sounds like either a green wire EGC bond would be required in this installation or replace the chase nipple with a close nipple and use two locknuts (and maybe a bushing).

Hello all, just curious as to what earlydean said in the above. I'm clear with replacing the chase nip' with a close nip' and locknuts, but, what method would you use to if you were to leave the install as is, and just bond the LB?

One way I can see is run a seperate EGC from the panel to the first pull box or enclosure from the LB, and bond there. How else could it be done? Or am I thinking to much into this??

Luke


Luke Clarke
Electrical Planner for TVA.

#100311 11/13/06 06:37 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,391
I
Moderator
I can see no reason why a chase nipple 'wrench tight' into an LB would not provide a good bond to an enclosure with the paint removed.

If it made the inspector happy I would put a locknut backward on the chase before installing it into the enclosure.


Bob Badger
Construction & Maintenance Electrician
Massachusetts
#100312 11/14/06 12:09 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 751
E
Member
Many a chase nipple I have installed wrenchtight into an LB still rattles against the enclosure. There is no way this is providing the "effective ground fault current path" as required by 250.4(A)(5).

The UL listing of reducing washers as a proper ground, sticks in my craw. I will have to digest this for awhile. UL does add: "where installed in accordance with" the NEC.

250.96(A) requires: Metal parts are to be "effectively bonded where necessary to ensure electrical continuity and the capacity to conduct safely any fault current likely to be imposed on them. Any nonconductive paint, enamel or similiar coating shall be removed" or replaced with grounding fittings.


Earl
#100313 11/14/06 06:59 PM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 7,382
Likes: 7
Member
I have to agree with Earlydean.....
I'm OK with a chase nip with locknuts.
Some chase nips around here have nice rounded shoulders, so there's no way they would be acceptable.

Still thinking on the derating thing....???

John


John
#100314 11/20/06 03:40 PM
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 345
T
Member
It just isn't that much work to put a locknut between the enclosure and the LB, LL, LR. Once that is wrench tight against the outside of the enclosure I'd call it good.


Tom Horne

"This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous for general use" Thomas Alva Edison
Page 2 of 2 1 2

Link Copied to Clipboard
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5