I agree that draft stopping caulk should be used and hampers the spread of fire via stopping the flow of air to feed it. The state building code does not require fire caulk in wooden construction, it requires draft stopping material. In wooden construction of 1 & 2 family dwellings, wooden fireblocks are required horizontally between vertical studs where the stud bay exceeds 9'. This fire block is for the same purpose, to hinder any chimney effect. That's why balloon framing was outlawed. I did not mean to imply that draft stopping material was a waste of time, just that fire stop in wood is over-kill, in my opinion. Drafting via ceiling fixture boxes and recessed lights is a much bigger concern, in my opinion, but who seals those(other than me)? Think about it. If a fire originates within a room of a single story home the receptacles and plastic boxes melt first before the sheetrock is penetrated. Draft stop at the top plate prevents a draft from fueling a fire in a stud bay. A fire starts in an attic and the draft stop in the top plate does it's job but what about the 20 recessed lights and dozens of ceiling boxes? Combustion air is drawn rapidly through these openings right into the cellulose insulation creating a forge effect. I've seen hot spots in the attic after fires where the owner thought every ceiling light must have started the fire at once. I seal around ceiling boxes after sheetrock and before insulation and only use air lock, double insulated recessed light housings. I use fire caulk when I penetrate a wall or ceiling and it is needed to maintain the over all fire rating of the wall or ceiling. My first post was not meant to denigrate safe practices.
