My conmpany does fire suppression installs and service. I would like to add some comments. Forgive me, as I tend to ramble. The manufacturers of fire suppression systems refer to NFPA 17 and NFPA 17A for commercial kitchen hoods, ducts, fans and required fire suppression systems. All heat producing appliances are to be shut down when the fire suppression system activates. This includes gas and electric fryers, grills, charbroilers, ranges. Also included are coffee pots, rice cookers, toasters. Gas appliances that shut down by an electric valve need to have a reset relay. The reset relay has a reset button that turns on the gas valve. Without the relay, gas flows as soon as power is restored. Think about the gas appliances coming on at full gas flow, then someone lights one pilot. BOOM. All receptacles under the hood are to shut off. Lights seem to be a local issue. The Exhaust fan can be shut off or stay on. Leaving the fan on vents the combustion gases and heat out of the kitchen. The exhaust fan also helps distribute the suppression chemical throught the duct and plenum. The intake air is to be shut down upon suppression system activation.
When you guys make electrical connections in the fire suppression system box, you are outside the listing. No connections are to be made in the system control box. There may be moving parts that will slam into your wire nuts. And please use insulated terminals on the micro-switch. The buzz I got this morning when I touched the uninsulated terminals was not fun.
The fan wiring should be enclosed in flexible conduit and long enough to remove the fan and lay it on the roof.
When you direct wire the appliances, use a wire that is long enought to allow the appliance to be moved for cleaning.
Thanks for listening to my long rant, and especially thanks to those who install long wiring to fans and appliances.
Douglas Hicks
General Fire Equipment Co of Eastern Oregon,Inc
