You had an Analog meter's needle swing backwards on AC? There should not be any difference of needle movement with an Analog meter on AC, whether the red probe is on the "Neutral" side or on the "Hot" side when doing a Voltage test.
Current tests would need the load current to flow through the Meter, then the load, but once again the polarities on AC would not matter [unless it's listed to have "Line" current in at one point / probe, then "Load" current out the other point / probe].
DC voltages will cause an Analog needle to swing "Into The Negative", or simply swing to the left side of the "zero" mark if polarity is reversed on a Voltage test. Same goes for an Ampere flow-through test; if the current is flowing in the opposite direction than the needle's deflection registers, it will of course swing to the left.
Digital Meters will show a "-" when doing Voltage tests, or flow-through amperage tests, with reversed polarity on the probes on DC systems.
AC tests will not show any polarity preference.
Be sure that you are setting the selection dial to the correct setting for the test you are performing. This is the same for Analog or Digital meters. Testing under incorrect settings will result in inaccurate readings, or misleading results [such as polarity swings].
If you are unsure of the selection points to use on your meter, repost another message to this thread with the symbols / indications shown on your meters, and we can give the equivalent meanings.
As far as the "Jaws", those are for amperage readings from only one conductor, and almost always for AC only.
Clamp the jaws around a single conductor to read the amperes.
Once again, be sure the meter is in the correct setting for amperage before clamping around a conductor. Start with the highest value, then work down to a lower value [if needed].
If the Ammeter probe ["Jaws"] are a separate unit which you connect to the meter, be sure to observe the connection methods and the "Scaling" figures.
Lastly, there's nothing wrong with using Analog meters - or Digital meters for that fact!
Digital meters have high accuracy, are simpler to use, easier to read, sometime more functions, and higher input Impedance - as compared to Analog meters [most commonly used Analog meters]. The High Z [input Impedance] can give you less/more than expected readings, so be aware of this situation. This is reffered to as "Low Loading Effect" for the meter.
Sometimes, the readings of an extremely high Z meter are interesting! [I'll keep out of this, or the message will become too long!].
Anyhow, Analog meters are great to observe conditions as they change. The visual effect of a swinging needle expresses changes greatly!
Digital meters are great for convenience of use, ease of reading and multiple functions - if you get into that stuff [Capacitor tests, Diode tests, Transistor tests, Hz tests, etc.]. They also allow "Sample And Hold" and "Peak" values almost universally - where this is something only special type Analogs would have [spec Analogs would also have the advanced testing abilities I mentioned].
One nice thing about most mid-level Analog meters I have seen [$100 - $200 range] is a setting for dB!
My FET Analog meter [used at home only!] has settings for DCV [1 to 1KV], ACV [3 to 1 KV], dB [-20 to +12], DCA [100 microamps to 10 amps], and of course - ohms [X1 to X100K + a continuity ringer].
Meter's acuuracy / loading effect is:
DCV: 10 Mohm
ACV: 10 Kohm
DCA: 316 mV
I have two "At Home" Digital meters. One has all the typical DMM features, plus Capacitor, Transistor and Diode testing ports.
The other one is a True RMS meter, and includes the typical DMM features plus Capacitor tests, Diode tests, Hz tests, Temperature tests and a nice continuity tester [upto 200 ohms for a "beep"].
It's ranging can be selected to 0.001 values, which is nice.
Scott SET
