You can glean much information from a picture. The make 'RAY' is unknown to me, a european, but the principle of the pressure-jet burner is universal. A gear pump draws oil from a tank. This passes to a pressure relief valve, usually set at about 100psi. Some oil is directed to a nozzle jet, where it is broken up into a spray-mist and ignited by a spark of 5-10,000v between ignition tips. The flame is formed in a 'retention head' to keep it attached to the burner and not get blown out by the high flame velocity. Excess oil [ up to 90% of the total drawn ] travels back to tank - the jet size and the pump pressure control the amount of oil burned. This is usually marked on the nozzle in US gallons/hr at the [standard] 100psi. The two line-fuel arrangement shown here is recommended if the tank is lower than the burner, to prevent oil cavitation. The motor, usually only about 100W, drives the gearpump and also an axial-blower which provides air via a variable flap, all combustion air being under pressure and adjusted to a get clean efficient burn. These burners can handle a variety of oils and kerosenes, but usually burn diesel of some sort, as it's cheaper.
Around here they were commonly added to the loading door of old woodfired boilers, hot-air furnaces being a rarity, and seemed to work quite well, if a bit noisy.
Underslung from this setup in the black box is probably the 'controller'. This usually employs a flame monitoring photo-cell device to provide 'flame out' safety before during and after burn, locking out the burner if 'unsheduled' burns occur! This is handy, as it precludes spraying oil into a flue fire! It also switches out the ignition arcs after a delay of about 15-30 seconds to conserve the igniter tips, and sometimes a pre-purge start delay to get the pump line up to pressure before firing- this saves fuel by ensuring a good spray at start. Recently electronic versions have appeared, displacing the mechanical-switched versions of yore, designed specifically to stop Alan building specials from junked units displaced by woodpellet burners!
I notice the RAY is standing on a Cast Iron tripod adjustable for height - marketed as an add on for solid fuel conversions perhaps?
Reno, I think the wiring may also be incorrect, [apart from the shock hazard!!] if shutdown also turns off the light! The duct stat should shut down the burn as 'furnace hot enough' by signalling the controller. The hot air should continue to flow to the dwelling by the ducting blower. A stat or programmer in the house should initiate 'call for heat' and 'call satisfied' signals to the controller and simultaneously control the ducted air blower to turn on/off the burn and the flow of hot air. Burns should be as a long duration as possible to use less fuel, as start ups are less efficient.
