All pictures and info submitted by Alan Belson:

Pic 1. Overview of the control board. This will eventually be hidden inside the stairs. Board is 4' x 8' x 3/4" ply.
There are 3 zones;
*The new house we presently live in, with conventional radiators run at 75C(167F), LH circuit.
*First (ground UK) floor u/f system. Dedicated circulator. Runs water at 43C (110F)
*2nd floor (1st floor UK) u/f system. Dedicated circulator. Runs water at 35C (63F), (set by factory at 40C )
Each circuit is; a demand signal starts a circulator & opens a motorised valve, relay in valve starts boiler.
All covers off to enable me to trace any faults. There were none.

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I've tried to keep the wiring logical and neat, so every electrical device feeds to its own small box, then on to the main boxes and panels, where the control circuits are wired. This has avoided the 'cramming it all in and hammer the lid on' approach, and made it a cinch to wire up, even had enough room for labels! I adopted Mark (E57)'s method of laying out house-wiring to position the choc-blocks in best logical positions in the panels, thankyou Mark! Some of the wiring is temporary, to give power and lights. 2 x 10 amp breakers on the board, with a 45A 2p Isolator. The LH breaker will eventually feed the forced whole-house ventilation.

Pic 2 Close up of main panels, which are plastic in Europe. I used 16mm pvc rigid for conduit. Note the hot wired signal wire.
The space in the top panel,RH, will be occupied by 2 wireless receivers from remote programmable thermostats, one for each floor. This pic shows the first fire up of the system for second floor. 65C boiler temp set., 40C input temp. 35C return temp, 21C ambient after 2 hours. These temperatures will be adjusted on full commissioning, but this result shows I'm drawing about 50W/m2, according to my manual, satisfactory!

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Pic 3 Valves and wiring. Trying desperately to keep it neat and tidy! The blue capped valves are the mixers, which take boiler water, mix it with floor-return water and maintain a constant floor input temp.. The boiler must run at high temperature for long life, and to feed the radiators.

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Pic 4 Boiler room. 36kw diesel boiler, stainless flue. Discrete circulator. A re-circulator valve rapidly brings the boiler to temperature. Red globe is the pressure accumulator, keeping system at 1 bar (14.7psi) , the safety blows at 3 bar. Green bottle is my Mark I homemade pump for getting system up to pressure. Fill is 33% ethyl-glycol plus inhibitor, 120 litres ( 26 imp. gallon) total system, made from a sprayer I nicked out of her greenhouse! The boiler has a fuel pump, so I have fitted an oil shut-off valve operated by a fusible link. Other links operate the air-in shutter and an electrical isolator. All this is intended to give some delay in the event of a fire. The boiler room will be air-sealed; I have intumescent sealed the door, ( 2" oak) , but still need to line the room out in sheetrock. Tank is bonded, and can be seen extreme right.

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Thanks Alan!. [Linked Image]